Fettuccine Alfredo (Italian: [fettut'tʃiːne alˈfreːdo]) is a pasta dish made with fettuccine, butter, and Parmesan cheese. As the cheese is mixed with freshly cooked, warm fettuccine and ample butter, it melts and emulsifies to form a smooth, rich cheese sauce coating the noodles.[1] Originated in Rome in the early 20th century, it is now popular in the United States and other countries.[2][3] Cream is commonly added to American versions, which are often served as a main course with optional chicken, shrimp, salmon or other ingredients on top or on the side.[4][5]
 | |
| Course | |
|---|---|
| Place of origin | Italy |
| Region or state | Rome, Lazio |
| Associated cuisine | |
| Created by | Alfredo di Lelio (1882–1959) |
| Main ingredients | Fettuccine, butter, Parmesan cheese |
| Variations | US additions: heavy cream or half-and-half, chicken, broccoli, parsley, garlic, shrimp, turkey, salmon, mushrooms |
| Similar dishes | Fettuccine al burro, pasta burro e parmigiano, pasta in bianco |
The dish is named for Alfredo Di Lelio, a Roman restauranteur who is credited with its invention and popularisation.[4] Di Lelio's elaborate tableside service was an integral part of the dish.[6][7][8] Fettuccine Alfredo is a richer version of the standard Italian fettuccine al burro ('fettuccine with butter'), also called pasta burro e parmigiano ('pasta with butter and Parmesan cheese'). It is a kind of pasta in bianco, that is, without added sauce.[9][10][11] The Italian recipes do not include cream and are not topped with other ingredients, nor is the dish generally called "Alfredo" in Italy.[2]
History
Roman origins
In Italy, the combination of pasta with butter and cheese dates to at least the 15th-century, when it was mentioned by Martino da Como, a northern Italian cook active in Rome;[12] this recipe for "Roman macaroni" (Italian: maccaroni romaneschi) calls for cooking pasta in broth or water and adding butter, "good cheese" (the variety is not specified) and "sweet spices".[13]
Modern reappearance
Modern fettuccine Alfredo was invented by Alfredo Di Lelio in Rome. According to family lore, in 1892 Alfredo began to work in a restaurant located in Piazza Rosa that was run by his mother Angelina. He cooked his first "fettuccine with triple butter" (Italian: fettuccine al triplo burro—later called "fettuccine all'Alfredo", and eventually "fettuccine Alfredo")[1] in 1907 or 1908 in an effort to entice his convalescent wife, Ines, to eat after giving birth to their first child Armando.[15][16] Recipes attributed to Di Lelio include only three ingredients: fettuccine, young Parmesan cheese and butter.[7][17][8] Yet there are various legends about the "secret" of the original Alfredo recipe: some say oil is added to the pasta dough; others that the noodles are cooked in milk.[18]
Piazza Rosa was condemned to make way for the construction of the Galleria Colonna (c. 1910)[19] and the restaurant was forced to close, after which, Di Lelio opened his own restaurant called "Alfredo" on the via della Scrofa (c. 1914).[20] Following a visit from the American actors Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks (who was known as "The King of Hollywood")[21] in the early 1920s, Alfredo began to serve his signature dish using a golden fork and spoon bearing the inscription "To Alfredo the King of the noodles" (said to have been a gift from the famous Hollywood couple in gratitude for Alfredo's hospitality).[22][17][1][2] Di Lelio's fame and success grew (he was knighted by the King of Italy, making him a Cavaliere dell'Ordine della Corona d'Italia) until war rationing made it increasingly difficult to obtain flour, eggs, and butter.[23][24][7] He sold the restaurant to two of his waiters in 1943 and retired.[8][25]
After the war, in 1950, Di Lelio opened a new restaurant in Piazza Augusto Imperatore with his son Armando.[26][3] He vigorously promoted the restaurant by creating a celebrity wall of fettuccine themed photographs showing himself (in humorous poses, with his noodles and gold cutlery) serving dignitaries, politicians, famous musicians and film stars such as James Stewart, Bob Hope, Anthony Quinn, Bing Crosby, Gary Cooper, Jack Lemmon, Ava Gardner, Tyrone Power, Sophia Loren, Cantinflas, and many others.[27] The dish was so well known that Di Lelio was invited to demonstrate it both in Italy and abroad.[8] The fame of the dish, by this time called maestosissime fettuccine all'Alfredo ('most majestic Alfredo-style fettuccine') on Alfredo's menus, was heightened by the tableside "spectacle reminiscent of grand opera" during its preparation,[9] "in a ritual of extraordinary theatricality".
[The] owner mixes the pasta and lifts it high to serve it, the white threads of cheese gilded with butter and the bright yellow of the ribbons of egg pasta offering an eyeful for the customer; at the end of the ceremony, the guest of honor is presented the golden cutlery and the serving dish, where the blond fettuccine roll around in the pale gold of the seasonings. It's worth seeing the whole ceremony. The owner, son of old Alfredo and looking exactly like him [...] bends over the great skein of fettuccine, fixes it intensely, his eyes half-closed, and dives into mixing it, waving the golden cutlery with grand gestures, like an orchestra conductor, with his sinister upwards-pointing twirled moustache dancing up and down, pinkies in the air, a rapt gaze, flailing elbows.[8]
Both the original restaurant (now called Alfredo alla Scrofa), and the post-war iteration (known as Il vero Alfredo and still run by the Di Lelio family) serve "fettuccine Alfredo" and compete vigorously, with escalating puffery (e.g., "the king of fettuccine", "the real king of fettuccine", "the magician of fettuccine", "the emperor of fettuccine", "the real Alfredo", etc.).[8] In 1981, there were about 50 restaurants in Rome selling similar fettuccine dishes, mostly called fettuccine alla romana.[28]
Fettuccine Alfredo, minus the spectacle, has now become ubiquitous in Italian-style restaurants outside Italy, although despite its worldwide renown, in Italy this dish is usually still called simply fettuccine al burro.[11][10][2]
In North America
The dish has long been popular with Americans, who, when in Rome, have often sought out its historical origins.[4][29]
Alfredo's noodles have been extolled in US newspapers, magazines, cookbooks and guidebooks since as early as the 1920s and 1930s.[23][30][17] In one of her popular travel guides, So You're Going to Rome!, Clara Laughlin writes, "Most travellers would blush to admit they had been in Rome and had not eaten Alfredo's fettuccine al burro."[31] Sinclair Lewis's 1922 novel Babbitt makes reference to "a little trattoria on the Via della Scrofa where you get the best fettuccine in the world".[32]
In the late 1920s and early 1930s, the American food writer and restaurateur George Rector wrote about "Alfredo's noodles", describing in detail the restaurateur's elaborate tableside preparation ceremony; he did not give the dish a specific name.[7] In a later account, Rector mentions the addition of accompanying violin music and golden tableware.[33]
This act of mixing the butter and cheese through the noodles becomes quite a ceremony when performed by Alfredo in his tiny restaurant in Rome. As busy as Alfredo is with other duties, he manages to be at each table when the waiter arrives with the platter of fettuccine to be mixed by him. As a violinist plays inspiring music, Alfredo performs the sacred ceremony with a fork and spoon of solid gold. Alfredo does not cook noodles. He does not make noodles. He achieves them.
— George Rector (1933)[33]
By the 1920s Alfredo was billing himself as Il Re delle Fettuccine 'The King of Fettuccine' (printed on his menus in both Italian and English), although when exactly the "fettuccine Alfredo" appellation came about is unclear. A 1925 Italian guidebook and its English translation uses "fettuccine al burro";[34][35] however, a 1927 article by Alice Rohe mentions "noodles Alfredo".[24] Throughout this period and beyond, restaurant reviews, advertisements, and recipes for "noodles Alfredo" (1927 and 1929),[36] "Alfredo's spaghetti" (1939),[37] "fettuccine all'Alfredo" (1956),[38] and eventually "fettuccine Alfredo" (1957 and 1964)[39][40] began to crop up in various publications.
In 1966, the Pennsylvania Dutch Noodle Company started marketing their dried "fettuccine egg noodles" with an "Alfredo" recipe on the package. In addition to the traditional Parmesan cheese and butter, this version also included Swiss cheese and cream.[41][42]
In 1977, Armando Di Lelio (Alfredo's son) and a partner opened a restaurant called "Alfredo's" near Rockefeller Center in New York, as well as another in Epcot at Disney World—both of which have since closed[43] (there are also branches of Il vero Alfredo in Mexico and Saudi Arabia).[44][45]
The two largest full-service Italian-American restaurant chains, Olive Garden and Carrabba's Italian Grill, both serve and advertise the dish widely.[46] A smaller chain, Il Fornaio, which says that its goal is, to "provide our guests with the most authentic Italian experience outside of Italy", does not serve fettuccine Alfredo.[47]
Some American food writers recommend that home cooks follow Di Lelio's three ingredient formula. Writing in Bon Appétit, the Italian-American chef Carla Lalli Music notes that "American cooks added heavy cream or half-and-half to thicken and enrich the sauce. To each their own, but no authentic fettuccine Alfredo recipe should include cream (because it dulls the flavor of the cheese)."[48]
The dish has its enthusiasts and its detractors. In 2018, the restaurant critic Pete Wells said of one version, "The Alfredo sauce, sweetly dripping from the fettuccine like rain from a leaf, hit me like a prescription opiate that had been specifically engineered for my opiate receptors. It's been a long time since I'd had fettuccine Alfredo";[49] In 1981, the travel writer Paul Hoffman called the Roman versions "one of the most tempting and at the same time simplest pasta specialties".[28] On the other hand, the food writer Gillian Riley says that the fettuccine of Rome "hardly need Alfredo's gross sauce of butter, cream [sic], and cheese".[50]
The American nutrition advocate Michael Jacobson described fettuccine Alfredo as a "heart attack on a plate".[51]
Alfredo sauce
In the United States, brands such as Ragú, Trader Joe's, Whole Foods Market, Bertolli, Kroger, Classico, Prego, Rao's, Newman's Own, Signature Select and Saclà sell shelf-stable Alfredo sauces in glass jars for home cooks. Giovanni Rana and Buitoni sell fresh Alfredo sauces in plastic tubs that must be refrigerated. The Alaska Seasoning Company makes "Alfredo sauce powder", a spice mix to which, according to the company, one "simply [adds] cream [to] make a restaurant style Alfredo Sauce".[52] These sauces are marketed at various price points and quality levels, and are often reviewed in food related publications.[53][54][55][56]
The British retailer ASDA sells a version called "New York creamy chicken Alfredo sauce".[57]
In 2020, the Alfredo alla Scrofa restaurant began offering its own bottled version of salsa Alfredo, promoted as using only the highest quality ingredients.[58] It contains Parmesan (43%), water, butter, rice flour, and sunflower seed oil—but no cream.[59]
Other Alfredo variants and formats such as pre-packaged fresh, boil-in-bag, or frozen meals are also widely available in the United States.[60][61][62][63] In the late 1970s, McDonald's experimented with a dinner menu that included fettuccine Alfredo, pizza, lasagna, and McSpaghetti. These options are no longer available in America.[64]
See also
Notes
References
Bibliography
- Root, Waverly (1971). The Food of Italy.
- Carnacina, Luigi; Buonassisi, Vincenzo (1975). Roma in Cucina (in Italian). Milano: Giunti Martello.
- Downie, David (2011). Cooking the Roman Way. HarperCollins. ISBN 9780062031099.
- Mariani, John F. (2011). How Italian Food Conquered the World. New York: St. Martin's Press. ISBN 978-0230112414.
- Zanini De Vita, Oretta; Fant, Maureen B. (2013). Sauces & Shapes: Pasta the Italian Way. New York: W. W. Norton & Company. ISBN 978-0-393-08243-2.
- Pipola, Clementina, ed. (2017). Fettuccine Alfredo. A true love story. Roma: Agra Editrice. ISBN 978-88-6140-220-1.
- Cesari, Luca (2023). The Discovery of Pasta: A History in Ten Dishes. Pegasus Books. ISBN 978-1639363162.
External links
- Fettuccine Alfredo Love Story (via Alfredo alla Scrofa)
- Our History (via Il Vero Alfredo)