Roger Baxter-Jones (1950 to 1985, born in London), was a British mountaineer, skier and alpine guide. He was an early pioneer in Himalayan alpine style ascents of eight-thousander mountains, and a guide in Chamonix, noted for his competence and vast experience.[1] Paul Nunn wrote "One of Britain's leading mountaineers, a member of the ACG Committee for years, and certainly one of the strongest ever, he was a top off-piste skier, and a mountaineer of impeccable judgment, able to guide on routes of the highest standards with a considerable margin."[2]
Notable ascents
His notable ascents in the French Alps include the second ascent of the Whymper Spur Direct on the Grandes Jorasses with Nick Colton; and the first winter ascent (solo) of the North Face of the Aiguille des Grands Charmoz.[2][3][4]
His notable Himalayan ascents include Jannu, Makalu II,[5] Makalu (unsuccessful), Shisha Pangma,[6] Broad Peak, K2 (unsuccessful). Baxter-Jones' golden rule "Come back alive, come back as friends, get to the top — in that order" was well respected amongst elite climbers.[7]
Baxter-Jones climbed with many of the premiere alpinists of his time including Doug Scott (who said of Baxter-Jones: "All the partners I've had who I really rated have gone"), Georges Bettembourg and Alex MacIntyre.[8][9]
Baxter-Jones and Scott's ascent of Broad Peak was the subject of the 1984 film Himalaya - 8000 mètres sans oxygène by Jean Afanassieff.[10]
Death
He died on 8 July 1985 aged 35 while guiding a client, when a serac collapsed on the north face of the Triolet.[2]
The Doug Parker and Roger Baxter-Jones Memorial Scholarship was established at the American Mountain Guides Association to honor his memory.[11]
Personal life
Roger Baxter-Jones married Christine Comte, and had a daughter, the actress Melanie Baxter-Jones.