Delaine (de laine, Muslin de Laine, Mousseline de Laine) was a kind of mixed cloth with cotton warp and wool in the weft. Delaines have many variations such as made of undyed yarns, and also printed or piece dyed. Delaine was a type of cloth used to manufacture women's dresses that was traded in the nineteenth century under many names to suit importers and traders. Moreover, it appeared that the plaintiffs'[clarification needed] goods differed from delaines in various other respects.[1][2]
Etymology
Delaine (de laine), Muslin de Laine, and Mousseline de Laine are all French words for wool cloth. This fabric [de laine] is also called "chaine cotton" in French, which means "cotton warp," and sometimes mi-laine, which translates "half wool."[1]
Fabric structure
Delaines were woven using cotton warp and worsted filling. It was a kind of plain thin fabric.[3]
Delaine wool
Delaine wool grades were specified for Delain cloth; they were strong and fine with a 3-inch length.[4]
Dyeing of Delaine
Due to the origins of cotton and wool fibers, cotton and wool have different dye affinities; solid colors in Delaines were difficult to achieve. When delaine colors were mixed in an inept manner, the cotton and wool colors were drastically different, resulting in the "threadiness" impression.[1]
Variations
Delaines were also produced using a silk warp and a wool weft,[5] as well as entirely of wool.[2]
Use
Delaines were used in blouses and various ladies' dresses.[6] They were printed for summer clothing material between 1830 and 1840.[3]
See also
References
