Traverse City, Michigan

19th century

American Indians

Prior to European settlement, Traverse City was a summer village for Odawa bands of Anishinaabe, who called the area "kitchiwikwedongsing".^[12] The Ojibwe called Traverse City "Wequetong", meaning "head of the bay".^[13]

European-American settlement

Grand Traverse Bay was named by 18th-century French voyageurs who made la grande traverse,^[a] or "the long crossing", across the mouth of bay, from present-day Norwood to Northport. The area was French territory at first, and then part of the Kingdom of Great Britain as the Province of Quebec. The area was ceded to the United States in 1783 following the Treaty of Paris, becoming part of the Northwest Territory.^[15]

In 1847, Captain Horace Boardman of Naperville, Illinois, purchased the land at the mouth of the Boardman River (then known as the Ottawa River) at the head of the west arm of the bay, which at the time was still inhabited by Native Americans. In 1847, the captain, his son, and their employees built a dwelling and sawmill near the mouth of the river. In 1851 the Boardmans sold the sawmill to Hannah, Lay & Co (made up of Perry Hannah, Albert Tracy Lay and James Morgan), who improved the mill greatly. The increased investment in the mill attracted additional settlers to the new community. Perry Hannah today is known as the founding father of Traverse City.

Traverse City was originally part of Omeena County, which was originally set off in 1840 from Michilimackinac County.^[16] The county remained unorganized, lacking a central government until 1851, when it was reorganized as Grand Traverse County. The newly designated county government was assigned a county seat at Boardman's Mills, a location in present-day downtown Traverse City.^[17]

Further growth

As of 1853, the only operating post office in the Grand Traverse Bay region was the one located at Old Mission, which was then known as "Grand Traverse". While in Washington, D.C. in 1852, Mr. Lay had succeeded in getting the U.S. Post Office to authorize a new post office at his newer settlement. As the newer settlement had become known as "Grand Traverse City", after the Grand Traverse Bay, Lay proposed this name for its post office, but the Post Office Department clerk suggested dropping the "Grand" from the name, as to limit confusion between this new office and the one at nearby Old Mission. Mr. Lay agreed to the new, shortened name of "Traverse City" for the post office, and the village took on this name. Also around this time, the first cherry trees were being planted on the Old Mission Peninsula, something the peninsula is widely known for today.

Late 19th century

In December 1872, rail service arrived in Traverse City via a Traverse City Railroad Company spur from the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad line at Walton Junction. The railroad tracked along the Boardman River and along Boardman Lake into Traverse City, and ended at a station along the Grand Traverse Bay, at the corner of present-day Grandview Parkway and Park Street. This new line of transportation from Southern Michigan opened up the area to settlement and industrial development. Many more people started flocking to the small community, and in 1881, Traverse City was incorporated as a village. This began the major commercial growth of the town.

In 1890, another rail line was extended to Traverse City, this one from Baldwin via Copemish and Interlochen.^[18] This line primarily served lumber companies, such as the Buckley & Douglas Lumber Company, and was used to transport logs from the vast forest of Northwest Michigan to sawmills in Manistee and Traverse City. Two years later, new railroads were extended out of Traverse City.^[19] One line was extended along the bay into Leelanau County, and curved south to a preexisting spur at Lake Ann. Another line was extended east into present-day Williamsburg, and to Charlevoix and Petoskey. This railroad was largely to serve tourists.

In 1881, the Northern Michigan Asylum, later the Traverse City State Hospital, was established as the demand for a third psychiatric hospital in Michigan, in addition to those established in Kalamazoo and Pontiac, began to grow.^[20] Perry Hannah, by then a prominent Michigan Republican, used his political influence to secure its location in Traverse City.^[21] Under the supervision of prominent architect Gordon W. Lloyd, the first building, known as Building 50, was constructed in Victorian-Italianate style according to the Kirkbride Plan. The hospital opened in 1885 with 43 residents. Under Dr. James Decker Munson, the first superintendent from 1885 to 1924, the institution expanded.^[22] Twelve housing cottages and two infirmaries were built between 1887 and 1903 to meet the specific needs of male and female patients. The institution became the city's largest employer and contributed to its growth. While the hospital was established for the care of the mentally ill, its use expanded during outbreaks of tuberculosis, typhoid, diphtheria, influenza, and polio. It also cared for the elderly, served as a rehab for drug addicts, and was used to train nurses.

On May 18, 1895, Traverse City was incorporated as a city. Perry Hannah served as the first mayor of Traverse City, after also serving as first and third village president.

Perry Hannah, nicknamed the "father of Traverse City", and his 1893 mansion in the Central Neighborhood of Traverse City.

20th century

The first National Cherry Festival was held in Traverse City in 1925. It was first called "Blessing of the Blossoms" and held in the spring to attract people during the blooming season. With the exception of the years before and during World War II, this tradition has been carried on since in Traverse City. The legislature moved the date of the festival to the summer, and it attracts tourists from around the state. During the week the festival takes place, the population of Traverse City rises from about 15,000 to about 500,000. In 2004 the legislature added "Blossom Days", again as a spring festival.

Also in 1925, Munson Medical Center opened, and has since grown to serve much of Northern Michigan and serves as one of Traverse City's largest employers.^[23]

In 1929, Traverse City's first airport, Ransom Field, opened, offering flights to Grand Rapids. It closed in 1936, when the new Traverse City Airport (now called Cherry Capital Airport) was opened. In 1953 the grounds of Ransom Field were redeveloped as Memorial Gardens Cemetery.

In 1934, the original Traverse City High School building burnt down, with no casualties. For three years, while the high school was being rebuilt, classes were moved to the Perry Hannah House, the former residence of the city's founder. Classes were moved back to the new school building in September 1937.^[24] In 1960, the high school was moved from downtown Traverse City to a new college-style campus on the grounds of Northwestern Michigan College, which opened a few years prior in 1951. The former high school building was converted to Traverse City Junior High. In 1997, the high school split into Traverse City Central and Traverse City West High Schools due to extreme overcrowding at the 1960s building.^[24]

In 1989, the Traverse City State Hospital closed, leaving hundreds without jobs, massive abandoned buildings, and many homeless former patients. Since 2000, the Minervini Group has undertaken the project of renovating the entire property into a social center, including many restaurants, retail spaces, office space, and residential space.^[25][26]

21st century

On November 3, 2015, Traverse City elected Jim Carruthers,^[27] its first openly gay mayor.^[28] After serving as mayor of Traverse City for six years, in June 2021 Jim Carruthers announced he would not run for his fourth mayoral term.^[29]

May 18, 2020, served as the city's 125th anniversary of Traverse City's incorporation as a city in 1895, and was known as the "quarantine quasquicentennial".^[12][30][31]

In April 2021, a group composed mostly of White students from two Traverse City area school districts held an online mock slave auction via social media app in a private group chat titled "Slave Trade", wherein they traded their Black student peers for monetary amounts while using derogatory language. After the local community was made aware of this event, a coalition of community members and Traverse City Area Public School (TCAPS) Board of Education officials drafted in response a resolution which denounced the behavior. The draft of the resolution itself led to community backlash initiated largely by White conservative parents and community members who regarded the planned resolution to be "...interlaced with critical race theory".^{[citation needed]} In the aftermath of the backlash, the resolution was edited by TCAPS school board officials. No date for consideration of the revised resolution has been set.^[32][33][34]

According to the United States Census Bureau, Traverse City has a total area of 8.66 square miles (22.43 km²), of which, 8.33 square miles (21.57 km²) are land and 0.33 square miles (0.85 km²) is water.^[35]

Traverse City is located in the northwest of Michigan's Lower Peninsula, and is located at the head of Grand Traverse Bay, a long, natural harbor separated from the waters of Lake Michigan by the Leelanau Peninsula. The bay is divided into an East Arm and West Arm by the Old Mission Peninsula, a thin strip of rolling hills and farmland known for its cherry crop and viticulture industry. As Traverse City contains shores on both of Grand Traverse Bay's East and West Arms, one cannot access the Old Mission Peninsula without entering Traverse City.

The Boardman River is a prominent river bisecting Traverse City from south to north. It also snakes through Traverse City's downtown district, effectively forming a peninsula, and dividing it from the Grandview Parkway. The river terminates at Grand Traverse Bay northeast of downtown Traverse City. The river's 287-square-mile (740 km²) watershed contributes one-third of the water volume to the bay and is one of Michigan's top-ten fisheries, with more than 36 miles (58 km) of its 179 miles (288 km) designated as a Blue Ribbon trout fishery.^[36] It is also a state-designated "Natural River".^[37] As of 2023, only one of the five dams constructed on the Boardman River remains.

Traverse City is surrounded by a substantial suburban ring, especially within Garfield Township, to its southwest. Garfield Township is the largest municipality in Northern Michigan by population. Other adjacent townships, East Bay, Elmwood, and Peninsula, and nearby Blair and Long Lake townships, boast significant suburban populations dependent upon Traverse City.

Layout and cityscape

Traverse City is laid out in a grid plan, with major streets running east–west and north–south.

The tallest building, at 10 stories, is the Park Place Hotel.

Neighborhoods

Traverse City is divided into the following neighborhoods:^[38]

• Ahgosa Resort
• Base of the Peninsula (BOOM)
• Boardman
• Central Neighborhood
• Downtown
• Fernwood
• Grand Traverse Commons
• Hilltop
• Indian Woods
• Kids Creek Commons
• Morgan Farms
• Oak Park
• Oakwood
• Old Towne
• Slabtown
• Traverse Heights
• Triangle Neighborhood
• Westminster Woods

Superfund site

Traverse City has one superfund site, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. This is the Avenue E Groundwater Contamination Site. At this location, toxic runoff from the Coast Guard Air Station contaminated the groundwater along Avenue E.^[39]

Traverse City has a warm-summer continental climate (Köppen Dfb) close to being a hot-summer continental climate (Dfa).

Its location near the 45th parallel is tempered by the strong and moderating effects of Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay, which have a particularly noteworthy effect on the peninsulas that branch north of the city. As a result, they have viticulture and cherry orchards.^[40]Consequently, it generally experiences warm, mild summers and severe winters. Lake Michigan especially, but also Grand Traverse Bay, greatly impact the area's diverse coastal weather patterns, which occasionally consist of sudden and/or large amounts of precipitation during the seasonally active periods. Lake-effect snowfall constitutes a large percentage of the total annual snow accumulation, which averages around 80 inches (203 cm).^[41] Periods of snowfall typically last from November to April, although light snow as late as May or as early as late September sometimes occur.

Traverse City's record high temperature is 105 °F (41 °C), recorded in 1936, and its low temperature is −37 °F (−38 °C), recorded on February 17, 1979.

Religion

Traverse City is part of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Gaylord.^[48] The city is part of the Episcopal Diocese of Western Michigan and is served by Grace Episcopal Church.^[49]

Companies headquartered in Traverse City include Hagerty Insurance Agency and Oilgear, and 20Fathoms, a technology incubator, is located here.^[50]

Most of Traverse City's economy is based on tourism.^[51]

In November, Beer Week offers tours of breweries, samplings, and workshops.^[52]

The National Cherry Festival, held annually in July, features parades, fireworks, an air show, carnival rides, election of festival royalty, music, a pie-eating contest, and cherries.

The Traverse City Film Festival occurs in July and August.

The Great Lakes Equestrian Festival features jumping, show hunting and equestrian competitions.^[53]

Traverse City State Park, with about 250 campsites, is located east of the city, and features a beach on the East Bay arm of Grand Traverse Bay.

The Boardman River Nature Center is the interpretive center and management headquarters for the Grand Traverse Natural Education Reserve, a 505-acre local park and natural area.

Traverse City is located immediately adjacent to two American Viticultural Areas, the Leelanau Peninsula AVA and the Old Mission Peninsula AVA. There are over 50 wineries near Traverse City.^[54] Located in the harbor of the Great Lakes Maritime Academy is the T/S State of Michigan, a 224-foot (68 m) former Navy submarine surveillance vessel. The vessel is used as a classroom and laboratory while cadets of the academy are underway and shore side.

A tall ship, the schooner Manitou, is berthed at Traverse City, and offers passages to the public.^[55]

Excursion passengers trains from Traverse City have included a Cherry Festival train in 2008, and a "dinner train" from 1996 to 2004.^[56][57]

Performing arts and museum

The City Opera House features plays, movies, and performances.

The Traverse Symphony Orchestra was founded in 1952.^[58]

The Dennos Museum Center is located on the campus of Northwestern Michigan College.^[59]

Historical markers

There are eleven recognized Michigan historical markers in the Traverse City area.^[60] They are:

• Bingham District No. 5 Schoolhouse
• City Opera House
• Congregation Beth El
• Grand Traverse Bay
• Grand Traverse County Courthouse
• Great Lakes Sport Fishery
• Ladies Library Association
• Novotny's Saloon
• Park Place Hotel
• Perry Hannah House
• Traverse City State Hospital

Libraries

Traverse City is served by the Traverse Area District Library, which has six branch libraries in Grand Traverse County.^[61]

The Huntington Rink indoor arena is used primarily for ice hockey, and is the home of the Traverse City North Stars hockey team.

During their annual offseason, the Detroit Red Wings of the National Hockey League hold their training camp at Traverse City's Centre Ice Arena.^[67][68] In addition to training camp every September, the Red Wings host an NHL Prospect Tournament, consisting of prospects of participating teams around the league. In 2021, the Traverse City Prospect Tournament consisted of players from the Detroit Red Wings, Toronto Maple Leafs, Columbus Blue Jackets, Dallas Stars, and St. Louis Blues.^[69] For this reason, Traverse City is often referred to as Hockeytown North, in reference to Detroit's nickname, Hockeytown.^[70][71][72]

Traverse City has over 30 park and recreational properties.^[73]

The Grand Traverse County Civic Center is a sports complex featuring seven baseball/softball fields, a skatepark, a walking trail, an amphitheater, sledding hill, pavilion, playground, an indoor pool, and an indoor hockey rink.^[74] The Grand Traverse Bay YMCA features four complexes with swimming, soccer, and tennis.^[75]

The TART trail system is a series of non-motorized recreational trails in and around Traverse City.^[76]

Traverse City is a home rule, charter city under the Home Rule Cities Act, incorporated on May 18, 1895. The city is governed by six commissioners and a mayor, elected at-large. Together they compose a seven-member legislative body. The commission appoints a city manager who serves as chief executive for city operations.

As of 2023, the city commission consists of mayor Amy Shamroe, mayor pro tem Mark Wilson, and commissioners Jackie Anderson, Heather Shaw, Mi Stanley, Mitch Treadwell, and Tim Werner.^[77][78]

Traverse City is located within Michigan's 1st congressional district, represented by Jack Bergman (R–Watersmeet). As with the rest of Michigan, it is served by senators Debbie Stabenow and Gary Peters (both Democratic) in the United States Senate. It is represented in the Michigan House of Representatives by Betsy Coffia (D–Traverse City),^[79] and is a part of the 103rd district. It is also represented in the Michigan Senate by John Damoose (R–Harbor Springs)^[80] and is a part of the 37th senate district.

Public schools

Public education is administered by Traverse City Area Public Schools. The district includes 11 elementary schools, two middle schools, three high schools: Traverse City Central, Traverse City West, and Traverse City High School.^[81]

Private schools

Traverse City offers a number of private schools.^[82]

Religious schools

Grand Traverse Area Catholic Schools administers Catholic schools, including St. Francis High School.^[83]

Other religious schools include:

• Traverse City Christian School^[84]
• Trinity Lutheran School^[85]
• Traverse Bay Mennonite School
• Traverse City Adventist School^[86][87]

Higher education

Traverse City is home to Northwestern Michigan College, a two-year community college.^[88] Its annual enrollment is around 5,100. One of its campuses is at the Cherry Capital Airport, and offers aviation and auto service classes. Another campus is at the Hagerty Center on Grand Traverse Bay, which is home to Great Lakes Maritime Academy, Great Lakes Culinary Institute, Great Lakes Water Studies Institute, and the Hagerty Conference Center.

Print

The Traverse City Record-Eagle is a daily newspaper circulated in the 13 counties surrounding the city, and is the newspaper of record for Grand Traverse County. Daily editions of the Detroit Free Press, The Detroit News, and The Grand Rapids Press are available.

Traverse is a monthly regional magazine.

Village Press, and Arbutus Press, are located in Traverse City.

Television

• Channel 7: WPBN-TV (NBC)
• Channel 29: WGTU (ABC)

Radio

There are 16 commercial radio stations in a variety of radio formats.^[89] Talk radio stations include WTCM, WJML, WMKT, WSRT, and WLDR. AM 1310 broadcasts sports. WKLT broadcasts rock music, and WNMC is a community public radio station. There are three religious radio stations: W201CM (a translator at 88.1) and WLJN AM/FM 89.9 FM and 1400 AM. WLDR plays an adult contemporary format. Interlochen Center for the Arts broadcasts the NPR member station called Interlochen Public Radio;^[90] it serves a large portion of Northwest Lower Michigan via two stations.^[91]

Transportation

Airports

Cherry Capital Airport in Traverse City is the fourth largest airport in Michigan.

Buses

Indian Trails offers intercity bus service to St. Ignace to the north and Grand Rapids and Kalamazoo to the south.

Bay Area Transportation Authority offers local bus service.^[92]

Major highways

• US 31 is a major north–south route running through the city. In Michigan, the highway largely parallels the shore of Lake Michigan.
• M-22 is a scenic highway with a terminus in Traverse City. The highway loops around the Leelanau Peninsula, and follows the shore of Lake Michigan south to Manistee.
• M-37 is a north–south route that passes through the city. The highway's northern terminus is at Mission Point Light, north of Traverse City.
• M-72 is an east–west route that traverses the Lower Peninsula.

Coast Guard

The Coast Guard Air Station Traverse City is responsible for maritime and land-based search and rescue in the northern Great Lakes region. Traverse City is one of two designated Coast Guard cities in Michigan, the other being Grand Haven.^[93]

Health care

Munson Medical Center is located here.

• Tsuchiyama, Shiga, Japan.^[101]

• Watershed Center Grand Traverse Bay

Footnotes

Works cited

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Traverse City, Michigan.

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Traverse City.

• City of Traverse City official website
• Traverse City, Michigan at Curlie